Gold Making Charges in Dubai: How Much Is Fair?

A fair making charge in Dubai depends on how the piece was made, not on the shop's mood. Plain machine-made chains and bangles should carry a low charge per gram; handmade, antique, Polki and Kundan work justifies a much higher one. Since the gold rate is almost the same in every shop, the making charge is where your money is won or lost, and at most Gold Souk shops it is negotiable.

So the real question isn't "what is the making charge?" but "is this charge fair for this piece?" That needs three things: knowing how it is quoted, knowing what drives it and doing the maths yourself.

Per gram or percentage: which quote are you getting?

Dubai shops mostly quote making as a flat amount per gram, in dirhams. Some quote it as a percentage of the gold value, which is the norm in many Indian showrooms. A few give you one "all-in" rate per gram that mixes gold and labour together.

The percentage format has a quiet catch. When gold is expensive, the same labour suddenly costs more in dirhams, even though the craftsman's work hasn't changed. Per-gram quotes avoid that. We compare the two formats in detail in percentage vs per-gram making charges.

Turning an all-in quote into a making charge

Check the day's 22K rate first. Here it is, live.

If a salesman says AED 330 per gram all-in and the board rate is, say, AED 300, then you are paying AED 30 per gram for making. Now you can compare it honestly with the next shop's "AED 300 plus AED 25 making".

What pushes the making charge up or down?

Labour is the main driver. The more hand-work and time in a piece, the higher the fair charge. Roughly, from lowest to highest:

1. Machine-made chains and plain bands. Produced in bulk. Low charge, and the most room to bargain because every shop stocks something similar.
2. Plain bangles and simple casting work. A little more finishing, still on the lower side.
3. Lightweight fancy designs. Hollow or filigree pieces use little gold but a lot of skill, so the charge per gram can look high. It is often fair.
4. Antique finish and temple jewellery. Detailed hand-finishing and oxidised effects.
5. Polki, Kundan and handmade bridal sets. The highest charges, and the hardest to compare because no two pieces are alike.

Weight matters as well. Light, detailed pieces carry a higher charge per gram than heavy plain ones, because the labour is spread over fewer grams.

Same weight, two very different bills

Take two 22K pieces, each 20 g, on a day when the rate is AED 300 a gram (an illustrative figure). One is a machine chain; the other is a hand-finished antique necklace.

Both bills could be fair. What wouldn't be fair is the antique-necklace charge on the chain. Notice too that VAT is charged on making, not just on the gold, so every dirham you save on making also saves 5% VAT on top.

Want to try your own numbers? The calculator below lets you test any weight, karat and making charge.

Is wastage the same as a making charge?

In many Indian shops you will see "wastage" or "VA" (value addition) on the bill as well as, or instead of, making. In Dubai you will mostly see a single making line. If a bill lists both making and wastage on a plain piece, ask what each covers. You shouldn't pay twice for the same labour. Our explainer on wastage charges in gold covers how this works.

How to negotiate a fairer charge

You don't need to be a hard bargainer. You need to be informed.

• Compare like for like. Get quotes on similar designs from three or four shops, split into rate and making.
• Bargain on making only. The gold rate follows the daily published rate. Pushing on it wastes goodwill.
• Use weight in your favour. Buying several pieces or a heavier set gives you room to ask for a lower per-gram charge.
• Be specific. "The shop two doors down quoted AED 18 for a similar chain. Can you do that?" works better than "Give me a discount."
• Know when to stop. On heavy hand-work you may get only a small cut. That's normal.

For actual scripts and timing tips, read our guide on how to bargain for gold in Dubai.

What about coins and bars?

Gold coins and bars don't carry a making charge in the jewellery sense. Instead you pay a premium over the gold value, which covers minting, branding and the dealer's margin. Small coins usually carry a bigger premium per gram than a large bar, simply because minting a 1 g coin costs nearly as much as minting a heavier one.

If your goal is investment rather than wear, that premium is the number to compare. A jewellery making charge, however fair, is mostly lost when you sell, because buyers pay for gold content, not craftsmanship. Our guide to gold premiums and spreads explains how to read a coin or bar price.

Are Indian-style designs charged differently?

Many Dubai shops stock designs aimed at Indian buyers: temple pieces, antique-finish sets, mangalsutras and lightweight daily-wear chains. The making charge follows the work, not the community it is aimed at. A plain 22K chain should cost about the same to make whether it is sold as Indian or Italian style. If a shop prices a simple design higher because it is "Indian", ask for the split and compare.

Does a low making charge mean a better deal?

Not always. A very low charge on a heavy piece can come with an inflated rate per gram, a stone weight counted as gold, or a stingy exchange policy later. Look at the total, not one line. And check that making is shown separately on the invoice. If it is buried, you can't prove what you paid, which matters when you exchange the piece or show the bill at Indian Customs.

Quick checklist for judging a making charge

• Know the day's board rate for your karat before you ask any quote. Our live 22K gold rate page updates through the day.
• Ask for the making charge per gram, separately from the rate.
• Match the charge to the type of work: plain and machine-made should be low.
• Remember VAT applies to making too.
• Get it itemised on the invoice. See how to read a Dubai gold invoice for what each line should show.
• If you are new to the souk, start with our Dubai Gold Souk shopping plan.